Ferry details: 2 1/4 hours
Departure by: Ferry (to Martinique)
Status: Independent (Commonwealth of Dominica)
Capital: Roseau
Currrency: East Caribbean Dollar (EC$)
Language: English, Creole
Native drink: Rum Punch and Kubuli beer
Island Tip: The majority of fresh juices are freshly prepared from locally grown produce
- a real treat! Also try the salads (they taste wonderfully earthy) and 'provisions'
(the local root vegetables).
Accommodation: Fort Young Hotel
Whilst checking in, the reception staff provide us with a 'cooling' wet towel and a 'cool' local juice!
Friday nights at the hotel are 'Local' events, with a creole food buffet and drinks.
Choose your preferred options, pay for them, get a ticket and redeem at the buffet/bar.
Great fun!
Notes on island travel:
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| Map of the Eastern Caribbean, as printed on the Eastern Caribbean Dollar notes. |
Approaching the island by ferry affords a wide mountainous and lush green view of the approaching destination. Dominica has an immediately noticeable relaxed and happy atmosphere.
DRIVING - The quality of Dominica's road network varies widely, with the road running along the West side of the island being the best. Other roads can be narrow and strewn with potholes, so that small distances can take much longer to drive than visitors may be used to. Due to these road conditions, in addition to some steep inclines, it's worth hiring a 4x4 vehicle. Public transport is restricted and won't cover routes further afield. All vehicle hire requires the driver to purchase a temporary Domincian driving licence, which the Agents will supply instantly. Once you have your car, don't forget to beep the horn at every corner, to say thank you, to let someone overtake, to let someone turn, when driving uphill, when going downhill, etc ... :)
ROSEAU - Staying in Roseau is a good option, as it gives access to all main facilities, not to mention the most glorious sunsets! Get up at daybreak and walk the deserted streets and enjoy the vibrantly coloured buildings, before all the local hustle and bustle begins. Most days, around 08:00 am, a cruise ship will pull in on the dock right on the seafront, obscuring the view out to the Caribbean. Hordes of (mostly) American tourists flood into Roseau at once, filling the previously empty streets. The cruisers are usually gone by 17:00 hrs, at which point the traders pack up all their merchandise and take it home, until the following day they set up again ...
One of the great places to hang out in is the Ruins Rock Cafe, on the corner of King George V Street and Old Street. As the name suggests, the cafe is housed in a ruin, covered with a plastic corrugated roof and long communal tables. The food served is local and their rum punches deliver a 'punch' indeed. During the day, when the cruise ships have docked, this place is brimming with tourists, all skyping, facebooking, and generally sitting together around the tables, but not communicating with each other at all - an education to watch! Our favourite evening past time was to enjoy the rum punch on the 'only' bench outside of the cafe, watching the traders move their dismantled stalls around, taxis picking up locals at the end of the day, and a one-armed 'friend' trying to entice us to a particular restaurant, and ... for more information ... take a trip yourself and send us your stories.
SOUTH WEST - In the south-west of the island a spit of land 'Scotts Head' protrudes from the island and its worth taking a walk to. It's quiet here - on the southern side of this 'tongue' the Martinique Channel throws excited waves against the beach, while on the northern side a peaceful ocean laps it calmly.NORTH WEST - Travelling north towards Portsmouth, watch out for signs to the Syndicate Reserve, a definite must-stop-off point if you are interested in the 'nature' side of things. But beware that from the turn-off point on the main road it will take a good half an hour to drive to the reserve. This road is narrow and remote, and it winds through lush tropical greenery spilling over onto the road. This is also where Dominica's fruit is grown, as acres and acres of banana plantations and citrus fruit orchards keep each other company. The Reserve lies at the end of this 'forgotten' road. It is here, guide books tell us, that you have the best chance of spotting the Dominican Sisserou and Jaco parrots. When we arrived we were the only visitors at the Reserve. As soon as we opened our car doors we could hear the loud and excited chatter of the parrots sitting in and flying among the trees. From the clearing at the car park we had a marvellous view, particularly when using our binoculars. During our hike in the rainforest we didn't hear or see the parrots at all, but seeing so many buttress roots, smelling the earthy air and hearing the raindrops falling, more than made up for it.
EAST - The drive along the eastern coast is far more rugged, as the Atlantic pounds the coastline and spreads wave mist into the air. It is this side of the island that is still home to some Carib villages, with the local Kalinago people still living in their stilted houses and working the land.
Overall, a peaceful and safe environment with locals keen to make contact, some fantastic scenery, and tasty barbecued road-side food - highly recommended! NOTE: When on or near beaches, look out for trees marked with a band of red paint; they are Manchineel trees and if their sap gets in contact with your skin, you can get burn marks and even blistering. I woke up one morning with red marks on my right arm, which I couldn't explain at all. Luckily there was no pain, but eventually some blisters developed and this in turn caused itchiness. The local pharmacies are all aware of this and can supply a cream which will help calm the burns. Because I'm not very brave, I actually visited a doctor, who drained the blisters, which accelerated the healing process. Six weeks on, there is still some redness, but now I'm very proud of it!
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