Croatian Summer Delights - August 2012

Arrival by:       Car (from UK via France & Germany)
Status:              Republic of Croatia
Capital:            Zagreb
Currency:        Kuna
Language:        Croatian
Native drink:   Rakija (plum brandy), Prosek (aperetif/dessert wine), good beers & excellent wines
Country Tip:   Eat as local as possible and stick to the authentic dishes (ie no pizzas!).

Accommodation:  Family & friends
                               Hotel Selce, Selce
                               Valamar Hotel Porec

Notes on travel:

The summer months in Croatia are busy.  Accommodation is sparse, indeed we were very lucky to find room at above listed properties, without pre-booking.

What I found really interesting to see this summer is that the local Croatian cuisine has been pushed 'off the table' by cheap and cheerful pizza, pasta, and french fries.

Apart from those who suffer certain food allergies and/or intolerances (and there can't be as many as I counted ...), it's a shame that the default food choice mostly appears to be one of the three listed above.  Not to say that I don't occasionally enjoy these foods myself - however, I still feel that when going to the lenghts of choosing your holiday destination and preparing for the travel, the anticipation of discovering something 'new' should be high on the agenda.  With each new country to explore, its food should be at the centre of it, as it gives plentiful insights into the local culture and can be a wonderful 'exploration' in its own right - you might be surprised!

With an array of barbecued meat and fish dishes, Croatian vegetables, salads and casseroles are also wonderfully satisfying.  Each area of the country has their own style of cuisine, with most visitors being exposed to the coastal way of food preparation. 

A colourful Adriatic plate of Prsut, olives and Pag cheese

Particularly in the northern area of Istria, the Italian foods are quite popular, based on history they were imported a while back and have remained (hence the pizza and pasta!).  But they're still not considered 'Croatian', therefore delving into some more exciting and tasty options will bring great reward for the pallet. 

BBQ fish - fresh & simple

As you travel south along the coast to Dalmatia, the food becomes more sophisticated ... an abundance of fish and fish soups, roasted goat's meat, grilled meats, accompanied by some of the best Dalmatian wines won't disappoint.

Šampita - a cream slice

Croatia also exceeds in its variety of delightful cakes and desserts.  These can be bought from the many ice-cream parlours around each town. 

Home-baked pancake gratin

And should you get a chance to try some home-made cakes, then don't hesitate ... they will be addictive :)

Do you enjoy local foods when you travel or do you prefer the 'safe' option?  And what are your reasons?  Would welcome your thoughts on this subject ...



Tokyo Pulse

At the eastern end of Asia, Japan is a place I didn’t expect to visit any time soon.  As luck will have it, a current project has required several business trips to Tokyo in recent months, and has introduced me to a most surprising and pleasant cultural experience.

On arrival the first impression begins with the queuing outside the airport terminal.  A designated area is painted in front of each coach stop, which allows travellers to form an orderly line.  Upon arrival and departure of each coach, the conductors bow expressly and repeatedly to the bus driver.

Tokyo forms a sea of buildings and covers a vast area, hugging Tokyo Bay which leads into the Sagami-nada Sea, through the Uraga Channel, and finally into the Pacific Ocean.

Getting some height in the city, either in your hotel room, office or hotel bar, will reward with a view across the sea of buildings.  Impressive during the day, the city takes on a life of its own at night. 

Flashing red lights are located on the roofs of major skyscrapers, expressing the city’s vibrancy; they create a moving effect which aptly reflects life in the busy metropolis.  Particularly on a clear night, this effect can be mesmerizing.

Parks are plenty and all worth a visit.  Often these open spaces will surprise with a temple or shrine, adding an interesting twist to a walk.  Many of the parks’ pine trees, which also often line the city’s streets, are trimmed to perfection. 

The undersides of branches are cleverly and neatly trimmed away, leaving the needles or leaves just growing upwards - creating a great effect!

Immersing yourself in the local culture by meeting some locals is well worth the effort, particularly over a pint of Japanese beer, which by the way is far too drinkable.  Your efforts will be rewarded by warmth, curiosity, interest and some banter, even when both sides' language skills are somewhat lacking!

So, get out there and explore some of Tokyo if you get a chance ...

Airport fog

I'm sitting at Newcastle airport, looking out over the runway, or at least trying to. Having been here before I know in which direction to look.  It's foggy to say the least, but it appears that nothing stops the modern day aircraft from flying. 
It's a wonder to watch as the planes take off into the thick opaque veil as if it wasn't there ... Amazing display! And yes, even though they are using the most advanced technology, it's nonetheless short of a wonder ... and man's ability of invention.Blogger: Airport Fog

'Chic' Martinique - Jan 2012

Arrival by:       Ferry from Dominica (Roseau) into Fort-de-France
Ferry details:   2 1/2 hours
Departure by:  Air (to Guadeloupe)
Status:              Overseas department of France, EU
Capital:            Fort-de-France
Currency:        Euro
Language:        French, Creole
Native drink:   Ti Punch (neat rum, sugar and a squeeze of fresh lime)
Island Tip:       New Year's Eve is celebrated with a BIG PARTY - but it happens on 30 December!
                          31 December is a day for family get-togethers and all shops and most restaurants
                          are closed!

Accommodation:  Hotel L'Imperatrice, Fort-de-France
                               Hotel Le Mangier, Tartane
                               Hotel La Pagerie, Pointe du Bout

Notes on island travel:

Martinique (Martinique) is named after the Carib Indian expression 'Madinina', meaning the island of flowers.  It's worth spending a few days here to discover these beauties:

Presqu'ile du Caravelle - This 12 km long peninsula pierces the Atlantic Ocean on the eastern side of Martinique.  It's fairly flat, but the small villages along its northern shores are worth exploring.  Tartane was our choice for an overnight stay, with our hotel affording a magnificent view from the hill across the bay and town.  We took lunch in a roadside cafe/restaurant 'chez Susy', with starters of local delicacies such as acras, crab, and boudin, followed by fresh fish from the grill and an excellent bottle of chilled white wine :)


Les Salines - This southern location has a beautiful beach, with palms draping themselves over the white sand and with gentle waves, so great for enjoying the ocean.  But the real treat here is the absence of any large tourist developments, allowing for an unusually relaxed experience.  Some small trade stalls hide in the shade of the palms, where refreshments and snacks can keep you going all day.  A must-do, not far from the beach is a salt pond, the Etang des Salines, which has an elevated walkway built across the pond to allow a stroll so as to admire the dry landscape, waders standing around in the low waters and thousands of crabs of all shapes and sizes dashing about as soon as they notice any movement.


Ste-Anne - Near Les Saline, this is a lovely small fishing village, where an hour or two can be lazed away strolling along the water and taking a coffee by the beach.  Walking south from the pier, a patisserie offers sandwiches, cakes and coffees - but the surprise is that you can walk out through the back, past where the fresh bread is being baked, onto a terrace which is right on the beach and by the water ... a real treat if you can find it.




Anse Caffard Memorial - On the southern foothills of Morne Larcher, just by the ocean, this memorial stands to remember the lives lost when a ship carrying African slaves ran aground in raging seas in April 1830.  There are 15 statues in all and they make quite an impact when spotted from the road.  Stop here and reflect on this incident while looking across the waters that caused it to happen.




St-Pierre - Travelling north-west from Fort-de-France the road takes you to St-Pierre, the former capital of Martinique.  It is famous mostly for being destroyed by an eruption of volcano Pelee, which looms just beyond the town, often shrouded in heavy clouds.  Visit the many ruins of places which have never been rebuilt ...

'Natural' Domincia - Dec 2011

Arrival by:       Ferry from Guadeloupe (Pointe-a-Pitre) into Roseau
Ferry details:   2 1/4 hours
Departure by:  Ferry (to Martinique)
Status:              Independent (Commonwealth of Dominica)
Capital:            Roseau
Currrency:       East Caribbean Dollar (EC$)
Language:        English, Creole
Native drink:   Rum Punch and Kubuli beer
Island Tip:       The majority of fresh juices are freshly prepared from locally grown produce
                          - a real treat! Also try the salads (they taste wonderfully earthy) and 'provisions'
                          (the local root vegetables).

Accommodation:  Fort Young Hotel
Whilst checking in, the reception staff provide us with a 'cooling' wet towel and a 'cool' local juice!
Friday nights at the hotel are 'Local' events, with a creole food buffet and drinks.
Choose your preferred options, pay for them, get a ticket and redeem at the buffet/bar.
Great fun!

Notes on island travel:

Map of the Eastern Caribbean, as printed on the Eastern Caribbean Dollar notes.

Approaching the island by ferry affords a wide mountainous and lush green view of the approaching destination.  Dominica has an immediately noticeable relaxed and happy atmosphere.

DRIVING - The quality of Dominica's road network varies widely, with the road running along the West side of the island being the best.  Other roads can be narrow and strewn with potholes, so that small distances can take much longer to drive than visitors may be used to.  Due to these road conditions, in addition to some steep inclines, it's worth hiring a 4x4 vehicle.  Public transport is restricted and won't cover routes further afield.  All vehicle hire requires the driver to purchase a temporary Domincian driving licence, which the Agents will supply instantly.  Once you have your car, don't forget to beep the horn at every corner, to say thank you, to let someone overtake, to let someone turn, when driving uphill, when going downhill, etc ... :)

ROSEAU - Staying in Roseau is a good option, as it gives access to all main facilities, not to mention the most glorious sunsets!  Get up at daybreak and walk the deserted streets and enjoy the vibrantly coloured buildings, before all the local hustle and bustle begins.  Most days, around 08:00 am, a cruise ship will pull in on the dock right on the seafront, obscuring the view out to the Caribbean.  Hordes of (mostly) American tourists flood into Roseau at once, filling the previously empty streets.  The cruisers are usually gone by 17:00 hrs, at which point the traders pack up all their merchandise and take it home, until the following day they set up again ...

One of the great places to hang out in is the Ruins Rock Cafe, on the corner of King George V Street and Old Street.  As the name suggests, the cafe is housed in a ruin, covered with a plastic corrugated roof and long communal tables.  The food served is local and their rum punches deliver a 'punch' indeed.  During the day, when the cruise ships have docked, this place is brimming with tourists, all skyping, facebooking, and generally sitting together around the tables, but not communicating with each other at all - an education to watch! Our favourite evening past time was to enjoy the rum punch on the 'only' bench outside of the cafe, watching the traders move their dismantled stalls around, taxis picking up locals at the end of the day, and a one-armed 'friend' trying to entice us to a particular restaurant, and ... for more information ... take a trip yourself and send us your stories.

SOUTH WEST - In the south-west of the island a spit of land 'Scotts Head' protrudes from the island and its worth taking a walk to.  It's quiet here - on the southern side of this 'tongue' the Martinique Channel throws excited waves against the beach, while on the northern side a peaceful ocean laps it calmly.

NORTH WEST - Travelling north towards Portsmouth, watch out for signs to the Syndicate Reserve, a definite must-stop-off point if you are interested in the 'nature' side of things.  But beware that from the turn-off point on the main road it will take a good half an hour to drive to the reserve.  This road is narrow and remote, and it winds through lush tropical greenery spilling over onto the road.  This is also where Dominica's fruit is grown, as acres and acres of banana plantations and citrus fruit orchards keep each other company.  The Reserve lies at the end of this 'forgotten' road.  It is here, guide books tell us, that you have the best chance of spotting the Dominican Sisserou and Jaco parrots.   When we arrived we were the only visitors at the Reserve.  As soon as we opened our car doors we could hear the loud and excited chatter of the parrots sitting in and flying among the trees.  From the clearing at the car park we had a marvellous view, particularly when using our binoculars.   During our hike in the rainforest we didn't hear or see the parrots at all, but seeing so many buttress roots, smelling the earthy air and hearing the raindrops falling, more than made up for it.

EAST - The drive along the eastern coast is far more rugged, as the Atlantic pounds the coastline and spreads wave mist into the air.  It is this side of the island that is still home to some Carib villages, with the local Kalinago people still living in their stilted houses and working the land. 

Overall, a peaceful and safe environment with locals keen to make contact, some fantastic scenery, and tasty barbecued road-side food - highly recommended!  

NOTE:  When on or near beaches, look out for trees marked with a band of red paint; they are Manchineel trees and if their sap gets in contact with your skin, you can get burn marks and even blistering.  I woke up one morning with red marks on my right arm, which I couldn't explain at all.  Luckily there was no pain, but eventually some blisters developed and this in turn caused itchiness.  The local pharmacies are all aware of this and can supply a cream which will help calm the burns.  Because I'm not very brave, I actually visited a doctor, who drained the blisters, which accelerated the healing process.  Six weeks on, there is still some redness, but now I'm very proud of it!

'Belle' Guadeloupe - Dec 11 / Jan 12

Arrival by:       Air
Flight details:  7.5 hours from Paris Orly to Pointe-a-Pitre
Departure by:  Ferry (to Dominica) & Air (to Paris)
Status:              Overseas department of France, EU
Capital:            Basse-Terre, on Basse-Terre island
Currrency:       Euro
Language:        French
Native drink:   Ti Punch (rum punch)
Island Tip:        Most bakeries or 'boulangeries' have cafe-style tables and chairs, so they make for a
                           good pit-stop during your travels.

Accommodation:  Grande-Terre @ Canella Beach Hotel
                               Basse-Terre @ Hotel Fort Royal Deshaies

Notes on island travel:

The immediate impression upon leaving the airport terminal is the intensity of the concert given by local birds and insects. Arrival in paradise!  Made up of two distinct and very different islands, Guadeloupe is divided only by a narrow salt river.

It's easiest to get around the islands by car.  Public transport timetables are not easy to get hold of and even then somewhat unreliable.  Although, it's quite nice to wander around on foot if you have the time, which can lead to some unusual interactions with the
                                                      locals, such as people leaving church or coconut sellers by the road.


Grand-Terre  -  The most developed tourist area is on the eastern island of Grande-Terre.  The major development of St Gosier on the south side is home to many hotels with some pretty white-sand beaches.  As you travel east, the towns of St Anne and St Francois also accommodate travelers, with St Francois being the less crowded and prettier choice of the two, including a well kept marina.

At the most eastern point of Guadeloupe named 'Pointe des Chateaux', it's worth climbing all the way up to the cross, from where you can look back onto Guadeloupe and observe how narrow this bit of eastern land is.  The southern side is hugged by mangraves, whereas the north-eastern side's beaches are lapped by Atlantic waves.  Further east you can also spot the island of La Desirade, part of Guadeloupe.


Traveling north, the landscape changes to agriculture, mainly sugar cane, with a much more rural feel to it.  Here, it feels even more quiet and remote.  At the northern-most point of Grande-Terre, Pointe de la Grande Vigie, a boardwalk allows a walk around the tip, and views north across the Caribbean to the islands of Montserrat and Antigua.

In the eastern small town of Petit-Canal remnents of the slavery days can still be found on the steps to the town church.  Small wooden boards are attached to the walls by the steps, into which the African tribal names are enscribed, of those brought here to be dispatched or sold.  Just down the road from the church are boats moored, allowing boat trips through the mangroves.

Basse-Terre  -  This western island of Guadeloupe is much more rugged and untouched.  A couple of forts make for stop-off points:  Fort L'Olive in the south and Fort Delgres on the outskirts of the capital Basse-Terre.  The latter and larger fort is named after the anti-slavery supporter Louis Delgres, and both are free to roam around in.

The road cutting this island in half 'Route de la Traversee' makes for a worthwhile drive, with options for hiking, rainforest walks, and waterfalls.  The oversized plants of the rainforest are wonderfully rich in colour and a great reminder of where you are ...

The western side of Basse-Terre is the best place to enjoy amazing Caribbean sunsets, with each day's colours changing and making them unique, particularly if you have a cocktail in your hand!  The town of Deshaies is quaint and mostly unspoilt by tourism.  The boulders of the break-water make for a good vantage point for a view across to the town.

Walk the beach of Grand Anse barefoot and enjoy the tranquillity, not easily found on many of the busier Caribbean islands.  There are also pretty and accessible beaches further north from Deshaies, which are protected for nesting turtles.

The charm of Guadeloupe comes from goats roaming by the roadside, ram-shackle houses painted in the wildest colours imaginable, red and green shiney rooftops, green landscape framed by the blues of the ocean and the sky, friendly locals, unspoilt and mostly untouched landscapes and pelicans diving impressively into the ocean for food.

Xmas Eve Paris - Guadeloupe bound

We arrived in Paris Charles de Gaulle airport and made our way to the Air France counter to get issued our free Air France bus transfer tickets to Paris Orly airport, from where we would continue our trip to Guadeloupe.

We were advised by the friendly and English speaking clerk that the next bus was due in 10 minutes, with some simple instructions on how to get to the bus pickup point.  It appears the clerk had forgotten that it takes at least 15 minutes to walk there, not taking into account the less than clear signage, which meant stopping and checking with various other airport officials if our progress was in the right direction!  Asking questions in French is all very well, but receiving an answer and understanding it is somewhat more difficult.  Nevertheless, having arrived at the pickup point, we were told by the luggage loader that we had only just missed the latest bus by five minutes.  But not to worry he said in very good and understandable English, if we took the pedestrian underpass, turned left at the other end and found gate two, then we would catch up with the bus we had just missed on its loop.  This would be much better than waiting another half an hour for the next bus!  How true, we thought, and pleased we only had the packs on our backs proceeded along the suggested route.  The directions were spot on and we had no trouble finding the spot marked 'Orly' in white on the black tarmac.

A group of people had already gathered there and now we only had to wait for our transport!  A couple of busses pulled into the 'Orly' spot, but none was headed there ?!  After ten minutes we spotted a bus on the elevated ringroad, clearly marked 'Orly' ... happily passing our crowd without even the slightest of an attempt to pull in and pick us up.  A French family of three enquired with a conductor as to the whereabouts of the bus, only to be told that that particular bus had not stopped, as it had filled up on its first pickup and thus could not take any more passengers on board.  Great ... Now what?

As luck will have it, both mother and father of above mentioned family spoke English and after a short conversation they suggested we share a taxi and split the cost, which worked out a treat.  Not only did mother 'Isabelle' speak English, but she had also lived on both, Guadeloupe and Martinique, and was happy to share some recommendations on what to do and see on both islands.  Incidentally, during the taxi ride five of President Sarkozy's jets were pointed out to us, neatly parked next to each other.

We finally arrived at Orly West (ouest) airport after a 35 minute ride. The facilities at the airport are fairly limited and quite pricey.  There are no announcements in English, as this is Paris' domestic terminal - yes, the French Antilles are counted as 'domestic' and even trade the Euro!  The good thing about this is that passengers only need to arrive one hour before the flight for check in ...

The flight was uneventful and not full, so we had plenty of space to spread out.  The late lunch was excellent, tasty and was served with a small bottle of rhum punch (Antilles rum drink) and a regular in-flight bottle of French wine already on the tray, in addition to any further drinks on offer from the drinks trolley.

Our lady captain got us into Pointe-a-Pitre right on time, with a flight time of 7.30 hrs.  As we stepped off the plane the wonderful Caribbean heat awaited and to go with it a concert arranged by the island birds and insects.